Great Book
This is a book for the adventuresome. While the writing is not as polished as the effort by Krakauer, it does indeed convey what it needs to, adequately enough that an interesting story unfolds. At the very heart of the book are interesting questions about the commercialization of high altitude climbing (nowhere more obscenely displayed than on Everest) and the commitment level of those that choose to undertake such a climb. Everest attracts thrill-seekers, as well as those who want to engage a challenge. Anatoli Boukreev, lead climber on the Mountain Madness team, definitely falls into the latter camp (as do most mountain guides). As someone that worked up to big mountain climbs over many years of climbing, continuously pushing his self-reliance in a measured manner, he is the epitome of what is to be a climber. The clients he led on Everest, however, came from various backgrounds, with varied levels of conditioning, mountain proficiency, etc.
As much as Everest clients may believe that they have an understanding of the danger and hardship that such a climb proposes, it is difficult to do so without the context that comes from years of experience.
This book was written as a rebuttal to claims made by Krakauer in his book but its true rewards to the reader lie elsewhere. The sad truth of the matter is that only the individuals on the mountain will ever really know what was running through their own heads at the time that critical decisions were made. Having a coherent thought above 8,000 meters is enough of a challenge without having the lives of clients in your hands.
I love any and all Mountainteering books, so if you love climbing, hiking, or mountainteering this is the book for you!!!
