Don't read this one first!
Folks raved about how funny this author can be, but I guess I don't "get" his sense of humor. The first 2/3 is the story of his travels with an American colleague; the author himself more in the role of narrator. Said colleague has returned home by the final section, leaving an anti-climax featuring O'Hanlon's ramblings and the natives' squabbling. I might read another by him, but not soon, and would recommend not starting with this book as I did.