Excerpt from Waves of the Sea, and Other Water Waves These things, and others of a like nature, I have watched for many years, and I have set down in this book what I have been able to add to former knowledge. I have written to inform the mind, not to stir the imagination. The appearances are familiar and recurrent, and I do not attempt to recall them by much word-painting, but the precise observation and measurement of waves, and the discovery of the mode of their production, are matters of difficulty, and to these I ...
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Excerpt from Waves of the Sea, and Other Water Waves These things, and others of a like nature, I have watched for many years, and I have set down in this book what I have been able to add to former knowledge. I have written to inform the mind, not to stir the imagination. The appearances are familiar and recurrent, and I do not attempt to recall them by much word-painting, but the precise observation and measurement of waves, and the discovery of the mode of their production, are matters of difficulty, and to these I have given myself. My investigations on water waves have been prosecuted during the last fifteen years. They have been made in many parts of the world, which I have visited principally for the study of surface waves of different kinds. The chief results as far as they. Relate to water waves are contained in this volume, which contains also a critical examination of observations made by a number of seamen and others upon the size and speed of ocean waves. Most of Part III., relating. To tidal bores and other waves in rivers, was published in the Geographical Journal and in Engineering in 1906, but Parts I. And II., which relate to waves of the sea, are new, and were written in I 909-1 0. Side by side with the observations of water waves, I have during the same period since I 89 5) been investigating the progressive transverse ridges which are produced in sand and snow by the action of water or wind, and I have made observations upon earthquakes and other wave phenomena which come within the province of physical geography. These I intend to publish later. About the Publisher Forgotten Books publishes hundreds of thousands of rare and classic books. Find more at ... This book is a reproduction of an important historical work. Forgotten Books uses state-of-the-art technology to digitally reconstruct the work, preserving the original format whilst repairing imperfections present in the aged copy. In rare cases, an imperfection in the original, such as a blemish or missing page, may be replicated in our edition. We do, however, repair the vast majority of imperfections successfully; any imperfections that remain are intentionally left to preserve the state of such historical works.
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PLEASE NOTE, WE DO NOT SHIP TO DENMARK. New Book. Shipped from UK in 4 to 14 days. Established seller since 2000. Please note we cannot offer an expedited shipping service from the UK.
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