This historic book may have numerous typos and missing text. Purchasers can download a free scanned copy of the original book (without typos) from the publisher. Not indexed. Not illustrated. 1912 Excerpt: ... for it. To my eyes, a vertical line to mark the center is unnecessary. If I pay any attention to it at all, I must change eye focus to do so, and this distracts me from my proper business of watching the mark. A triangle of ivory or platinum is worse, because it blurs with the bead of the fore sight. A deep notch is ...
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This historic book may have numerous typos and missing text. Purchasers can download a free scanned copy of the original book (without typos) from the publisher. Not indexed. Not illustrated. 1912 Excerpt: ... for it. To my eyes, a vertical line to mark the center is unnecessary. If I pay any attention to it at all, I must change eye focus to do so, and this distracts me from my proper business of watching the mark. A triangle of ivory or platinum is worse, because it blurs with the bead of the fore sight. A deep notch is objectionable for hunting, because if I draw down into it (military "half sight") a great deal of the light is cut off. In the forest we need all the light we can get. Drawing half sight has this serious defect, for a hunter, that it is hard to do in quick aiming and may be impossible in dim light. Hence, if the rifle is adjusted for half sight, one is prone to overshoot. I consider it bad practice to draw fine, medium, or coarse bead, according to distance. There is too much guesswork about it. With a high power rifle, you are almost sure to overdo the matter. So, on all accounts, I prefer a plain, level bar, with small nick to mark the center, and I always aim with full bead showing just its plain circle above the bar. When firing beyond the range for which bar or leaf is adjusted, I strive to aim as many inches higher as the drop of bullet requires. For instance, with a rifle using our military cartridge and bar permanently set for a " point-blank " of one hundred and fifty yards, I carry this simple rule in my head: 200 yards = 3 inches drop 225 yards = 5 inches drop 250 yards = 8 inches drop Up to one hundred and seventy-five yards I make no allowance at all, as the variation does not exceed a couple of inches anywhere. It is easier to remember "three, five, eight," and aim accordingly, than to cut off precisely an infinitesimal fraction of an inch at the muzzle while looking keenly at the distant mark. The me...
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PLEASE NOTE, WE DO NOT SHIP TO DENMARK. New Book. Shipped from UK in 4 to 14 days. Established seller since 2000. Please note we cannot offer an expedited shipping service from the UK.
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PLEASE NOTE, WE DO NOT SHIP TO DENMARK. New Book. Shipped from UK in 4 to 14 days. Established seller since 2000. Please note we cannot offer an expedited shipping service from the UK.
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New. Sewn binding. Cloth over boards. 152 p. In Stock. 100% Money Back Guarantee. Brand New, Perfect Condition, allow 4-14 business days for standard shipping. To Alaska, Hawaii, U.S. protectorate, P.O. box, and APO/FPO addresses allow 4-28 business days for Standard shipping. No expedited shipping. All orders placed with expedited shipping will be cancelled. Over 3, 000, 000 happy customers.
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Seller's Description:
PLEASE NOTE, WE DO NOT SHIP TO DENMARK. New Book. Shipped from UK in 4 to 14 days. Established seller since 2000. Please note we cannot offer an expedited shipping service from the UK.
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Seller's Description:
PLEASE NOTE, WE DO NOT SHIP TO DENMARK. New Book. Shipped from UK in 4 to 14 days. Established seller since 2000. Please note we cannot offer an expedited shipping service from the UK.
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Near Fine in Very Good+ jacket. Reprint, 1933, hardcover with black stamped green cloth boards in dust jacket, octavo, 152pp., sparsely illustrated in b&w. Book near fine with mild wear to spine ends and corners, binding tight, text clean and unmarked but toned throughout. DJ VG+ with edgewear that includes a small tear to spine head, mild rubbing, front flap price-clipped.
