1 Introduction.- 1.1 Scope of the monograph.- References.- 2 Basic Wave Dynamics.- 2.1 Phase speed solution for a surface wave.- 2.2 Internal and capillary waves.- 2.3 Finite amplitude waves.- 2.4 Group wave speed and wave energy.- References.- 3 Wave Generation Propagation and Dissipation.- 3.1 Historical notes.- 3.2 Early theories of Kelvin, Helmholtz and Jeffreys.- 3.3 Wave generation and growth by linear processes.- 3.4 Wave growth by nonlinear interactions.- 3.5 Wave propagation and dissipation.- References.- 4 Wave ...
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1 Introduction.- 1.1 Scope of the monograph.- References.- 2 Basic Wave Dynamics.- 2.1 Phase speed solution for a surface wave.- 2.2 Internal and capillary waves.- 2.3 Finite amplitude waves.- 2.4 Group wave speed and wave energy.- References.- 3 Wave Generation Propagation and Dissipation.- 3.1 Historical notes.- 3.2 Early theories of Kelvin, Helmholtz and Jeffreys.- 3.3 Wave generation and growth by linear processes.- 3.4 Wave growth by nonlinear interactions.- 3.5 Wave propagation and dissipation.- References.- 4 Wave Prediction: Early Wave Prediction Techniques.- 4.1 General comments.- 4.2 Significant wave method.- 4.3 Wave spectrum method.- 4.4 Wave spectrum formulation.- References.- 5 Wave Prediction: Spectral Models.- 5.1 General comments.- 5.2 Discrete spectral wave models.- 5.3 Parametric and hybrid wave models.- 5.4 Coupled discrete wave models.- 5.5 Third generation wave models.- References.- 6 Wave Prediction in Shallow Water.- 6.1 General comments.- 6.2 Review of earlier work.- 6.3 Spectral approach.- 6.4 Inclusion of shallow-water effects in operational wave analysis and prediction.- References.- 7 Validation of Wave Models.- 7.1 General comments.- 7.2 Evaluation of individual wave models.- 7.3 Intercomparison of wave models.- 7.4 Wave model intercomparison during CASP.- 7.5 Summary.- References.- 8 Wind Specification for Wave Analysis and Prediction.- 8.1 Cardone's procedure.- 8.2 Wind specification for operational wave models.- 8.3 Examples of wind specification differences; results from CASP.- References.- 9 Wave Analysis: Operations and Applications.- 9.1 General comments.- 9.2 Analysis of wave records.- 9.3 Wave products and wave climatology.- 9.4 Extreme wave statistics.- 9.5 Real-time wave analysis and prediction.- References.- 10 Summary and Future Outlook.- 10.1 General comments.- 10.2 Present status of operational wave models.- 10.3 Wave model initialization.- 10.4 Wave modelling in shallow water and in nearshore region.- 10.5 Future outlook.- References.
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