MODERN INDIA BY WILLIAM ELEROY CURTIS Author of The Turk and His Lost Provinces, To-day in Syria and Palestine JLffyft, Burma and British Malaysia, etk t CHICAGO NEW YORK TORONTO FLEMING H. REVELL COMPANY LONDON EDINBURGH MCMIX Copyright, 1905, by FLEMING H-REVELL COMPANY Second Edition New York 1 58 Fifth Avenue Chicago 125 North Wabash Ave. Toronto 25 Richmond Street, W. London 2 1 Paternoster Square Edinburgh 100 Princes Street To LADY CURZON An Ideal American Woman This volume contains a series of letters written for ...
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MODERN INDIA BY WILLIAM ELEROY CURTIS Author of The Turk and His Lost Provinces, To-day in Syria and Palestine JLffyft, Burma and British Malaysia, etk t CHICAGO NEW YORK TORONTO FLEMING H. REVELL COMPANY LONDON EDINBURGH MCMIX Copyright, 1905, by FLEMING H-REVELL COMPANY Second Edition New York 1 58 Fifth Avenue Chicago 125 North Wabash Ave. Toronto 25 Richmond Street, W. London 2 1 Paternoster Square Edinburgh 100 Princes Street To LADY CURZON An Ideal American Woman This volume contains a series of letters written for The Chicago Record-Herald during the winter of 1903-04, and are published in permanent form through the courtesy of Mr. Frank B. Noyes, Editor and publisher of that paper. TABLE OF CONTENTS I. The Eye of India u II. The City of Bombay 27 III. Servants, Hotels, and Cave Temples ... 46 IV. The Empire of India 62 V. Two Hindu Weddings 83 VI. - The Religions of India ...... 99 VII. .. How India Is Governed ...... 120 VIII. fhe Railways of India 144 IX. The City of Ahmedabad 156 X. Jeypore and its Maharaja 164 XI. About Snakes and Tigers 186 XII. The Rajputs and Their Country . . . 194 XIII. The Ancient Mogul Empire, 202 XIV. The Architecture of the Moguls . . . .217 XV. The Most Beautiful of Buildings . ... 232 XVI. The Quaint Old City of Delhi 250 XVII. The Temples and Tombs at Delhi .... 268 XVIII. Thugs, Fakirs and Nautch Dancers . . 377 XIX. Simla and the Punjab 295 XX. Famines and Their Antidotes 312 XXI. The Frontier Question 336 XXIL Mrhe Army in India . 351 XXIII. Muttra, Lucknow and Cawnpore .... 366 XXIV. kfasie and the Women of India .... 382 XXV. Education in India 397 XXVI. The Himalyas and the Invasion of Thibet . . 413 XXVII. Benares, the Sacred City 418XXVIII. American Missions in India ..... 457 XXIV, Cotton, Tea and Opium ...... 467 XXX. Calcutta, the Capital of India 483 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS MODERN INDIA Map of India, Frontispiece A Bombay Street 17 The Clock Tower and University Buildings, Bombay ., 23 Victoria Railway Station, Bombay 30 Nautch Dancers, 92 Body ready for Funeral Pyre, Bombay Burning Ghat, 105 Mohammedans at Prayer 117 Huthi Singhs Tomb, Ahmedabad 162 Street Corner, Jeypore 169 The Maharaja of Jeypore 172 Hall of the Winds, Jeypore 175 Elephant Belonging to the Maharaja of Jeypore . 181 Tomb of Etmah Dowlah, Agra . . . . .200 Portrait of Shah Jehan 228 Portrait of Akbar, the Great Mogul 228 The Taj Mahal 232 Interior of Taj Mahal ...,, .. 236 Tomb of Sheik Salim, Fattehpur 244 A Corner in Delhi, 255 Hall of Marble and Mosaics, Palace of Moguls, Delhi ., 262 Tomb of Amir Khusran, Persian Poet, Delhi . . . 275 Kim, the Chela and the Old Lama . . ., . . 305 A Ekka, or Road Cart 317 A Team of Critters ........ 334 Group of Famous Brahmin Pundits 369 Tomb of Akbar, the Great Mogul 380 Audience Chamber of the Mogul Palace, Agra ... 400 A Hindu Ascetic ..,, ., 431 A Hindu Barber 441 Bodies ready for Burning, Benares 447 Great Banyan Tree, Botanical Garden, Calcutta, 475 The Princes of Pearls ........ 501 MODERN INDIA THE EYE OF INDIA A voyage to India nowadays is a continuous social event. The passengers compose a house party, being guests of the Steamship company for the time. The decks of the steamer are like broad verandas and are covered with comfortable chairs, in which the owners lounge about all day. Some of the more industrious women knit and embroider, and I saw one good mother with a basket full ofmending, at which she was busily engaged at least three mornings. Others play cards upon folding tables or write letters with portfolios, on their laps, and we had several artists who sketched the sky and sea, but the majority read novels and guide books, and gossiped. As birds of a feather flock together on the sea as well as on land, previous acquaintances and congenial new ones form little circles and cliques and entertain themselves and each other, and, after a day or two, move their chairs around so that they can be together...
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